The Design of Academical Dress
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Classification of Styles
The following classification of Hood and Gown styles is based on that of Nick Groves, FBS, lecturer in Mediaeval Studies at the University of East Anglia, in his Hood and Gown Patterns document.
Styles are usually enclosed in square brackets, for example: Burgon shape [s2] for hoods or Cambridge BA [b2] for gowns.
References after a style, e.g. (Shaw, fig.70 & 71), are to the diagrams in Dr. George Shaw's Academical Dress of British and Irish Universities, published in 1995, which is the most widely available book on the subject (see Bibliography for more details).
Simple Hoods
s1: Oxford simple/plain - (Shaw, fig.72)s2: Burgon - (Shaw, fig.70 & 71)
s3: Belfast - (Shaw, fig.86)
s4: Edinburgh - (Shaw, fig.85)
s5: Wales bachelors - (Shaw, fig.83)
s6: Leicester bachelors
s7: Leeds
s8: Sussex
s9: Manchester
s10: Aston
s11: Glasgow Caledonian
Full Hoods
f1: Cambridge - (Shaw, fig.75 & 76)f2: Dublin - (Shaw, fig.79 & 80)
f3: London - (Shaw, fig.87)
f4: Durham doctors - (Shaw, fig.84)
f5: Oxford doctors - (Shaw, fig.73 & 74)
f6: Durham BA
f7: Durham BCL etc
f8: Edinburgh DD
f9: Glasgow
f10: NCDAD
f11: Warham Guild
f12: St.Andrews
f13: UMIST doctors
f14: AIC doctors
f15: Toronto
Aberdeen Hoods
a1: Aberdeen - (Shaw, fig.77 & 78)a2: Leicester masters - (Shaw, fig.81 & 82)
a3: Kent
a4: East Anglia
a5: Leicester doctors
a6: Dundee
Bachelor's Gowns
b1: Oxford BA - (Shaw, fig.38 & 3)b2: Cambridge BA - (Shaw, fig.37)
b3: Cambridge MB etc - (Shaw, fig.31 - 36)
b4: London BA - (Shaw, fig.42)
b5: Durham BA - (Shaw, fig.41)
b6: Wales BA - (Shaw, fig.45)
b7: Bath BA
b8: Imperial College diplomas
b9: Belfast BA - (Shaw, fig.39)
b10: Dublin BA - (Shaw, fig.40)
b11: Reading BA - (Shaw, fig.43)
b12: Sussex BA - (Shaw, fig.44)
Master's Gowns
m1: Oxford MA - (Shaw, fig.49)m2: Cambridge MA - (Shaw, fig.48 & 50)
m3: Dublin MA - (Shaw, fig.52)
m4: Wales MA - (Shaw, fig.59)
m5: London MA - (Shaw, fig.56)
m6: Manchester Victoria MA - (Shaw, fig.57)
m7: Leeds MA - (Shaw, fig.54)
m8: Leicester MA - (Shaw, fig.55)
m9: Bristol MA - (Shaw, fig.51)
m10: CNAA MA - (Shaw, fig.4)
m11: Lancaster MA - (Shaw, fig.c)
m12: St.Andrews/Glasgow MA - (Shaw, fig.53)
m13: Liverpool MA
m14: Open University (all degrees)
m15: Warwick MA - (Shaw, fig.a)
m16: Bath MA - (Shaw, fig.b)
m17: Sussex MA - (Shaw, fig.58)
m18: Manchester 2005 MA
Doctor's Robes
d1: Cambridge/London - (Shaw, fig.60 & 63)d2: Oxford - (Shaw, fig.62)
d3: Cambridge MusD/St.Andrews - (Shaw, fig.61)
d4: Oxford lay/gimp gown - (Shaw, fig.g)
d5: Oxford Convocation habit - (Shaw, fig.f)
d6: Sussex - (Shaw, fig.64)
Undergraduate Gowns
u1: Cambridge basic (King's etc) - (Shaw, fig.18)u2: Oxford scholar - (Shaw, fig.8)
u3: London - (Shaw, fig.10)
u4: Durham
u5: Oxford commoner - (Shaw, fig.7 & 9)
u6: Sussex
u7: East Anglia
Academic Caps
h1: Square cap (Mortar-board) - (Shaw, fig.88)h2: Tudor bonnet - (Shaw, fig.89)
h3: John Knox cap - (Shaw, fig.90)
h4: Bishop Andrewes cap - (Shaw, fig.91)
h5: Oxford cap - (Shaw, fig.93)
h6: Sussex pileus - (Shaw, fig.92)
h7: Leicester doctoral cap (modified biretta)
h8: UEA BA "Fr Brown" hat (no longer used)
h9: UEA MA "Highwayman" hat (no longer used)
